Saturday, July 28, 2012

Day 9 Buildings and Bottled Goods

Probably hang out in the area.  There could be some serious investigation of food (various German cakes, bread and sausages spring to mind) and bottled goods (there must a winery somewhere in the Barrosa that isn't suffering from kitsch fatigue and sells its booze cheaply).

The Arte Johnson character from Rowan aand Martin's Laugh-in played a storm trooper prone to pithy sayings.  When I worked in Adelaide we took his diction and a cliché from many war movies to come up with "You still haf relatives in der Barossa Valley?" as the ultimate threat from a colleague of Prussian ancestry.

If we did in fact have relatives in the Barossa Valley they would probably be seeing quite a bit of us!  The day was basically Frances's as staying in the Barossa was her idea.  Somehow a place less than 200km from Adelaide has always seemed like a day trip rather than a multi-day stay,  Indeed on this trip it was originally planned to just stay 2 nights.  However today was an excellent day and there are hopes for the morrow.

The night was interesting in a birdy sense, as whenever either of us woke we could hear Magpies carolling away. I presume this is one more element of a South Australian July being a Canberra September!

The small dog was continuing to vote for the Suffolks being the most interesting sight of the morning.

We began with a walk from our accommodation along Neldner Rd to Seppeltsfeld Rd. 

This was a very pleasant stroll past vines with lotsa nice gum trees along the road, occupied by many parrots.  The range of parrot species has been pretty good also: Adelaide Rosella, Musk and Rainbow Lorikeets, Red-rumped Parrots, Galah and little Corella.  The Gnadenfrei Lutheran church on Seppeltsfield Rd was very picturesque, especially with a well sung version of "The Lord is my Shepherd" wafting out from an early morning service.
Back in the road, the avenue of palm trees was, as recognised by many tourism operators in the Barossa, stunning.
The palms are also evident in this image, taken mainly to capture the decrepid thatched barn.  I doubt if there is anyone in the area who could do thatching these days.

After getting back home we took ourselves to the Information place in Tanunda and got a bunch of information.  Our first use of the information so gathered was to do the historical walk around Tanunda.  This was really good as the whole area seemed to have largely retained its historic character.  

The German gravestones were a highlight, 
with a special mention going to the memorial to Pastor Kavel who led the Germans (OK, Silesians - mny of them came from what is now Poland) from their homes to get religious freedom (and start the quality end of the South Australian wine industry- sorry Dr Penfold)!
The Kugelbahn (skittle alley) was particularly appealing as it was near Langmeil Rd and I have really enjoyed some Der Kugelbahn Shiraz produced by Langmeil Winery!
We then decided to visit the Barossa Brewery, but found they didn't open for a while.  As Frances had found where the local sewage ponds were located we filled in a bit of time there, adding several species of waterfowl to the trip list.  On returning to the brewery I found they could supply me with Organic Ale (5.3%) and Bee-sting Honey Wheat Beer (5%).  After my passing the plastic the owner asked if I had other plans for the day and on my response of "Yes, I plan to do as my wife tells me." he said "Ah.  A normal day then."

We then headed for Angaston, which town (IMHO- I did see it called a village) also had an historic walk.   The walk was a "join in anywhere" item which was a tad disconcerting as we ended up doing it in reverse, causing some issues from time to time.  The churches were interesting contrasts of denominational architecture - Anglican first, then Uniting:

and our old favourite question from country NSW "What have all the banks become?" came back as a good question.
 The pubs, usually remain as pubs.


Frances swung in to Angas Park Fruits (dried stuff) but found their prices far higher than we would pay (for similar fruit but other brands) in Canberra. 

After this we went to Nuriootpa which did not offer an historic walk, nor much else to cause us to put on the brakes until we got out to the Sturt Highway.  There was an interesting moment when we saw an official sign giving the population of 'Nuri' as 829 which seemed far too low.  At the other end of the town we found it was actually 4829! 

It didn't take us long to get to the other end of town as it was simply a commercial centre with very little of the old part of town in existence.  On the outskirts it appeared that modern suburban living was alive and well - or as close to alive and/or well as a modern, garden free slum can be.  What is it about the song "Little Boxes”, made famous by Pete Seeger, that people do not understand?

One conclusion we reached about this was that it is necessary to maintain a critical mass of historic buildings if the character of a town is to be preserved.  That had been done in Tanunda, and just about done in Angaston.  Nuriootpa had failed completely.   This view correlated very closely with the amount of traffic parked in the main street of each town.  (A similar comparison exists between Quebec City, Montreal and Toronto.  Many European towns and cities have got it right by preserving the historic centre and only letting the forces of evil loose on the outskirts.)

When we got to the Highway we headed for bow-tie central - also known as Wolf Blass Wines!  They were offering a special deal where a purchase of a dozen Silver Label earned a bonus six Shiras Vigonier.  That worked out to about $10.91 a bottle which is around the mark for a good bottle of red.

Our final stop of the day was at Maggie Beer's Farm shop where Francie acquired some excellent pate and a sauce.  The pate has been assessed on toast and rated extremely highly.  Well done cook!

Bird of the day:                     Pink-eared Duck
Plant of the day:                    Grape vine [They don't have to be pretty endemics!]
Interesting sight of the day:  German cemetery at Tanunda
What we  learnt today:         The importance of a critical mass in conservation.

 Each town brass-band, has got a hall:
Of yellow brick designed!
They play upon the ovals,
Their oompahs most refined